Bali
Indonesia! One of my favorite places visited and probably our favorite dive sites to date! For us, Indonesia was all about the National Park above and below the surface of the water. When we arrived in Denpasar we were overwhelmed by the mass amount of people and vehicles. We know Bali is known for its beaches, but we had another agenda and a timeline to meet before flying to Europe. So, we only spent 1 whole day on Bali and we used it to go to Ubud. Many people recognize this name from the book Eat Pray Love, or if they have been to Bali or intend to go it’s the area known for its lush rice patties and locals handicrafts.
Being tipped off by our host, he suggested to motorbike rather than car because of the traffic. What should have taken 4 hours in a car, took 2 and some hair loss. So that is what we did, and oh man, I never gritted my teeth harder. The traffic in Denpasar is absolutely ridiculous and requires nothing less than driving like a made man, or woman in my case. Because Robin has a need for speed and got in a motorbike accident a few years back he lets me do the driving. I’m a little more cautious, but honestly either way you are playing rush and roulette out there.
After an intense two hours that felt like I was driving in a video game, speeding between cars, driving in the opposite lanes, and hopping on and off the sidewalks, we finally made it to Ubud. Oh, and did I mention the downpour half way there? However, Ubud is BEAUTIFUL! The rain stopped perfectly in time as we pulled up to the center of town driving through 2 feet deep puddles that quickly rushed down into the drains. You can imagine it takes a lot of rain to keep this place as lush and green as it is. The side of the road was lined with cute kitschy shops full of carved wood products and other local handicrafts and textiles. So much more relaxing than the fast, busy pace of Denpasar. Alas, we spent few hours checking the place out and eating lunch, then it was back to the racetrack for us.
Flores Island and Komodo National Park
From Bali we flew into Flores Island which is where visitors stay when touring Komodo National Park. We did a few days diving and then another couple on an overnight liveaboard boat that would take us out to the various islands on foot. The islands in this area are arid and volcanic. There isn’t a lot that lives above ground here that doesn’t fly, however below the surface of the water lives some of the richest marine life in the world. This area is unique because it is where two oceans meet, creating strong currents and bringing plenty of cold water and nutrients.
The coral here is some of the best coral we’ve seen traveling. And I have now seen corals of Australia, Mexico, USA , Thailand, and Malaysia. The coral is cooled by the strong currents of the two oceans meeting, and also kept more intact because of it. The currents in Komodo are some of the strongest in the world and are not for beginner divers, as they can prove extremely dangerous. Its exhilarating, but it can be hard work and technical as well trying to manage them.
With thriving coral comes mass amounts of fish including large, pelagic fish like sharks and mantas. Seriously, diving here is a magical experience that video and words will never do it justice. I want to tell everyone to go, but I don’t want anyone to go so things will not change. Although the waters here are a wonderland, they face great threats like all waters around the world today. Some of the locals rely on dynamite fishing, which kills far more than what they intend to take as well as the coral beneath. Also, because the waters are not controlled as well as they should be, there are large boats anchoring down tearing apart the coral below, though it is illegal inside the park. Other issues these waters face due to man are the sunscreen we use and the climate change we’ve created. There is no doubt this is some of the best coral in the world if not the best, but it is under attack the same. What we saw was glorious, and to think it is now a fraction of the size it once was leaves me feeling deeply disturbed.
Above sea level lives some of the most beautiful, scarcely inhabited beaches that come in an array of colors like pink, white and black. Also, on a select few islands lives the infamous and wild Komodo Dragons. While on our liveaboard we were lucky enough to visit a couple of these islands and get close ups with a few of the dragons. The big males we saw had thankfully just feasted and we were able to snap some close ups while they let their bellies rest. We did however have a bit of a close encounter with a mating female that thought the group was a bit too close. Nothing gets the adrenaline pumping like a guide yelling, “run!” 😉
Flores Island itself is a large island with a few remote towns. On one side you have Labuan Bajo where locals still live a modest life and with indigenous people living traditionally nearby, but tourism is rapidly changing the landscape. This is an area with no running water and no plumbing. There is a mix of cute boho and trendy shops and shacks side by side. Surprisingly, for a place so widely known it is less built up then I had imagined. I’m glad for this, but we expected different. Instead you can see there aren’t that many people that visit the area in the broad scheme of people visiting Indonesia. The town is basically one long road by the waterfront with streets reaching up into the hills and neighborhoods. The best form of transportation is to walk or hire a random local on a motorbike looking to make an extra buck. The locals are some of the most friendly people you will ever meet! Many are honest and willing to help a stranger for nothing in return. Proud to speak of and share their country and culture. Flores isn’t the cleanest of cities, but it definitely has its charm.
Gili Air
From Flores we moved to the large island of Lombok for a few days and the smaller, actually tiny, Gili Air island for another week. An island with no motor vehicles and no police. After a busy week in Flores and Komodo we thought we deserved the rest and relaxation. Nothing really of note here besides experiencing the first of several earthquakes that sent Indonesia into a state of emergency. Thankfully Robin and I were not injured and left before the last and worst of the earthquakes hit the islands in the days following. Robin and I were stirred from our sleep with a shaking hut. Naked and not willing to run outside, we ran to the bathroom doorway in hopes the building would stand. It did, with nothing but a few cracks up the walls. This was actually the first and worst of at least 10 more quakes that day and Robin’s first ever!
Coincidentally, we had to leave the next day back to Bali and our fast boat was cancelled due to high waves. This turned into a 20 hour journey back to Denpasar via long drives and a ferry ride that was supposed to be 4 hours turned into 14 due to the high waves again and not being able to dock. It was an adventure to the airport indeed, but we were just thankful to arrive to Denpasar a few hours before our flight. However, before we left, while negotiating our return to Bali we were speaking with the locals on Lombok and sadly a few people did actually die in the first earthquake due to landslides and houses collapsing. One local said for the next few nights many would be sleeping outside in fear of another. Robin and I thought, what are the chances of another large earthquake so soon? As it turns out, less than a week after we left Lombok it was hit by another much more devastating earthquake killing hundreds. Unfortunately, this is all too much a part of life in a volcanically and tectonically active part of the world. The lack of government structure and resources within these communities compounds the situation.
Overall we had an amazing time in Indonesia and I hope that someday we are able to go back and dive again! You can see my photos below and don’t forget to check out our dive video, filmed and edited by Robin Clowers.
